So why are we here at this juncture? I couldn't get the rocker arm to slide over, remember? Without moving the rocker off the valve tip, ya can't swap shims. If you pull the belt(s), you can spin the cam pulley with more control than turning the engine and my be able to find the sweet spot. I pulled the rocker arm pin and got rid of rocker anyway. Let's get going on the details of today's adventure.
I popped the other 2 rocker arm clips to start with. Since I don't have to touch the right intake shims, I might have gotten away with leaving this one on, but what the hey. The motor was left in TDC-compression so it's time to pop the vertical belt cover and check marks. Below left is the vertical cylinder cam pulley. I have a mark on the pulley and an arrow on the motor and they're lined up. The dot on the layshaft pulley lines up with a line on the engine case (below, center) and the dot on the horizontal cylinder pulley lines up with its arrow (below, right). Cool, marks all around so I don't need to make my own and count teeth on the belts and such.
Pulling the horizontal belt was a little fiddly. There's a lip on the layshaft
pulley you need to work around. Loosen the tensioner bolts and roll the tensioner bearing down to give you plenty o'slack. Pull the belt off the cam pulley. That'll give you plenty of play to wriggle the belt out from under the layshaft pulley lip. There ya go, horizontal belt is free.To get to the rocker arm pins, move round to the left side of the motor. You need to remove the oil input cap, the rocker pins hide under there. Start with the oil line. I didn't, I left it for last and had to re-bolt the cap in order to keep the cap stable enough to pop the oil line bolt loose. After the oil line is off, take out the 4 outer bolts. 1 should already be loose, it held the radiator. 2 hold the horn on and the other 1 just holds the cap. After you get the bolts out, twist the cap clockwise about 20 degrees so an edge stands proud of the motor. I'm supposed to use a small rubber mallet to knock it loose but I have none. I used the handle of a large rubber mallet and hit the head of said mallet with a hammer from the right side of the motor to knock it loose. When there's about a 1/4" gap between cap and motor, it's about free enough to pull off by hand. Slides off fairly easily.
Oh, BTW, the valve covers are back on because I left Gab to fend for herself last weekend. Thought I should close up some holes lest a stray squirrel wander in and decide to nest. After you pull the cap, you can access the rocker pins. These are the 4 larger gray bores in the photo above right. The ones toward the top of the head are the opener, those underneath are the closer pins. The bores take a 5mm bolt. For about $0.47 you can get a 5mm x 40mm bolt and fender washer from your local hardware store. I love the fastener aisle in the farm and ranch store up the road from me. (Crap, just found out John Wooden passed. Great man, not so much for his basketball record but more so for his legacy as a teacher and molder of young lives. Godspeed good sir.) I was going to try and fashion a slide hammer like configuration, but in futzing with the end cap, I noticed one of the pins was out a bit so I pushed it back in. That's when I found out it wasn't a tight fit. Look below, you'll see how a little bolt and fender washer makes a workable rocker pin extractor.
When you pull the pin, make sure you catch the washers on either end of the clip (which has been removed at this point). I pushed them together at the far end of the pin a put my magnetic pick up tool on 'em to keep 'em from going anywhere dangerous. As soon as you pull the pin, the rocker comes right out. Home free now, right? Read on.... tomorrow.
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